What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3 that has gained popularity in the skincare world for its numerous benefits for the skin, including brightening and evening out skin!
If you, like me, work in the healthcare world, you might be immediately thinking ‘Wait, doesn’t niacinamide come from nicotinic acid which causes a flush reaction of the skin? Why are we using it in skincare??’
While you’d be right in thinking that nicotinic acid does cause a flush to the face and neck, niacinamide actually doesn’t! In fact, it’s often used to calm redness and inflammation, and is even beneficial for those with sensitive skin. This is because it’s a different form of vitamin B3 that’s generally well tolerated.
With that being said, there are a small number of people who do experience mild irritation or allergies to niacinamide, but it’s generally a safe and well loved ingredient for most people!
How does niacinamide work and why should I consider it?
The mechanism of action of niacinamide is very varied and my healthcare background means just I can’t help doing a deep dive into the way that it works! But after all, isn’t it better we know how our skincare ingredients work? When we know how it benefits our skin, we’re that much more likely to never to skip out on our steps. Though, I’ll try not to bore you and instead keep it simple!
So, after being converted into its active form in the body, NAD, niacinamide works in the following ways:
It enhances the production of ceramides in the skin
These are essential lipids that help to maintain the skin’s natural barrier function and reduce transepidermal water loss. Essentially, niacinamide helps the skin retain moisture to maintain optimum hydration.
It inhibits the activity of sebaceous glands
This leads to less sebum production and in turn, reduction of acne formation. Its role in sebum control means it’s great for those who suffer with acne, and it’s thought to also help reduce the appearance of pores. Some skincare clinical trials have shown that it’s been as effective as some topical antibiotics such as clindamycin, but without the worry of antimicrobial resistance!
It activates fibroblast cells
A fibroblast is a type of cell that contributes to the formation of connective tissue. One of its primary roles is the production of collagen. And we all know collagen helps retain skin elasticity, in turn helping reduce skin texture and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
It stabilises mast cells
These are white blood cells that play a role in inflammation and allergic response. It’s also the cell responsible for releasing histamine, a chemical associated with the allergic response. The broad anti-inflammatory action and barrier repair properties of niacinamide make it useful for conditions like eczema and rosacea.
It plays a role in inhibiting enzymes that may contribute to ageing and skin cancers
These enzymes that are often activated by UV rays, so niacinamide helps to counter that. Niacinamide also helps against skin damage by inhibiting the production of inflammatory mediators like prostaglandins and cytokines, which can contribute to ageing.
It inhibits the transfer of melanin
This can help to lighten dark spots and reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation.
Its antioxidant properties means it inhibits glycation
This is a process where proteins and sugars crosslink together, giving the skin a sallow or yellowed appearance. So essentially, niacinamide puts a stop to that!
Those are just some of the many functions of niacinamide! So you can already begin to see why it’s such a powerhouse of an ingredient. Unlike retinols and vitamin C, it tends to be a very well tolerated ingredient, meaning that if you don’t already have it in your routine, you’re seriously missing out!
How much niacinamide is enough niacinamide?
You might have seen skincare products out there with niacinamide ranging from 2% all the way up to 20%, but is more always better?
To be honest, research has shown that percentages as low as 2-3% can have significant benefits for the skin in terms of controlling oil production reducing blemishes. Concentrations from 5% have a greater effect in evening out skin tone and reducing discolouration. Concentrations about 7% may have some benefit, but are significantly more likely to cause irritation, especially in those with sensitive skin.
If you’re unsure with what percentage to choose, my advice will always be to start low and slowly build your way up to a concentration that works for you.
What products can I use in my routine that contain niacinamide?
If you’re looking for product recommendations, you’re definitely in the right place! Did you know, it is believed that Korean skincare companies were among the first to recognize the benefits of niacinamide for the skin and to include it in their products?
One of the first Korean skincare brands to use niacinamide in their products was Missha. They released the Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule back in the early 2000s, which contained a high concentration of niacinamide. This product became crazy popular and was considered a game changer in the skincare industry, and soon many other brands followed suit.
Today, their Time Revolution Night Repair Ampoule is even more refined than it was 20 years ago, containing Bifida ferment lysate, sodium hyaluronate and of course niacinamide at a concentration of 5% to help maintain dewy, clear skin, while also benefitting those with acne. There’s a reason why this ampoule has survived the industry as long as it has!
If however, you’d prefer to start off with something a little gentler, and your main skin concern is acne, I’d highly recommend The Beauty of Joseon Glow Serum. The concentration of niacinamide in this is a little bit lower at 2%, but is still effective in treating fine lines, uneven skin and regulating sebum production. The feel of this serum is like using a luxury high-end serum, with its slightly thick, glossy texture that leaves your skin glowing. One of the other key ingredients in this ampoule is propolis, an extract produced by honeybees that’s been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and wound healing properties, making it a great product for acne prone skin.
The SOME BY MI Yuja Niacin Brightening Moisture Gel Cream is a great lightweight moisturiser if you’re looking for something that provides hydration and brightens skin. The cream contains 90% Yuzu extract (mandarin and lemon), which together with 5% niacinamide and arbutin, delivers long lasting radiance to the skin without that heavy, sticky feeling. It’s a perfect to-go gel cream to use in summer!
To wrap up…
It’s clear that niacinamide is a star ingredient in skincare, with benefits ranging from skin brightening, to even having anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. No matter your skin type, it’s that one ingredient that can benefit anyone and everyone!
Hopefully, if you don’t currently use niacinamide, this post has convinced you to delve into the world of niacinamide and its many benefits!