Korean skincare’s approach is very different. K-beauty focuses on prevention and gentle but effective ways to treat acne. It’s not about feeling *the burn*. The burn might be psychologically reassuring – the whiff of alcohol and menthol and ensuing wincing and in my case, hopping around the bathroom in pain is surely supposed to be worth it right?
My grandmother once told me that beauty is pain but I’d vehemently say that isn’t the case in terms of skincare. At least not any more. The burning sensation actually reflects a step towards damaged skin rather than the opposite.
Essential Steps in an Effective Acne Treating Skincare Routine
But what’s the difference between a regular k-beauty skincare routine and an acne treating one? Acne is actually trapped sebum as opposed to outright dirt unlike old wives’ tales.
The trapped sebum becomes closed comedones i.e whiteheads and blackheads. It is important to gently remove excess oil and target acne with active ingredients via chemical exfoliants such as AHA and BHA. It is vital to then provide gentle hydration to heal compromised skin barriers.
So, let’s get started…
Here are my holy grail k-beauty acne products.
1. Morning cleanser –Isntree Yam Root Vegan Milk Cleanser. Gently massage it into your skin for much needed nourishment. Its non-stripping formula ensures that skin is prepped for make up application. Top tip: wash your face after brushing your teeth. Toothpaste can cause breakouts around your mouth and chin.
2. Toner – Anua Heartleaf 77% Soothing Toner. Pour it into your palms and gently press it into your skin. Layer it for extra hydration. Hydration is an undeniably underrated aspect of k-beauty acne prevention and treatment. It is important to provide a moist environment for acne to heal.
3. Serum – SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Blue. This serum along with the rest of the range is formulated with minimal ingredients to avoid exacerbating skin barrier damage. It doesn’t contain unnecessary preservatives or chemicals whilst providing optimal hydration. This makes it the perfect third step.
4. Moisturiser – PYUNKANG YUL Calming Moisture Barrier Cream. This moisturiser is perfect for locking in moisture due to its ceramide and niacinamide containing formula. A study found that both ceramides and niacinamides ‘significantly improve non-inflammatory, inflammatory, and total acne lesions’ (Tempark et al, 2024, Efficacy of ceramides and niacinamide-containing moisturizer versus hydrophilic cream…)
5. Acne treatment – SOME BY MI AHA.BHA.PHA 14 Days Super Miracle Spot All Kill Cream. Its triple active ingredient formula removes excess sebum, dead skin cells and therefore improves skin texture. In short, this k-beauty spot treatment treats acne without irritating it. Its travel friendly size makes it perfect for bringing on trips. My only regret is that I didn’t try this sooner. It is a miracle product for sure.
6. Acne patches – COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patches. These are perfect for day and night. I like to wear them at home when I’m not wearing sunscreen or make up. They eliminate the temptation to touch acne (we all know that prodding acne just makes it worse) and soothes acne by providing physical protection as well as a moist environment for optimal fast healing. *Remember moisture is our friend – not our foe*.
7. Sunscreen – AXIS-Y Complete No-Stress Physical Sunscreen. It does what it says on the tin* (tube). Its wound healing formula contains grape seed extract, green tea and calendula extract. I love its finish too; it looks great with and without make up. Its blurring effect makes it perfect for foundation-free days.
8. Lip balm – A’PIEU Honey & Milk Lip Balm. It is my new favourite lip balm. Its soothing ingredients are perfect for sensitive dry lips and its smooth formula makes it a pleasure to apply during the day and night. It’s my new handbag essential.
And then…
Supplements* – It is important to consult medical professionals. I like to take vitamin D; I have found that vitamin D reduces the frequency of my acne breakouts. Research (Hasamoh et al, 2022) supports this: ‘vitamin D levels were negatively correlated with acne severity’.
Now it’s time to get my Saturday morning started
My plan is to drink barley tea whilst admiring cherry blossom trees. I highly recommend you try this Korean staple if you haven’t already. I hope you enjoy your morning too.